Centre of Expertise Rechtvaardige Stad
Lector T.R. Nachtigall (Troy)
Lector Fashion Research & TechnologyTroy Nachtigall is een zeer ervaren ontwerper en onderzoeker op het snijvlak van mode en technologie. Hij zoekt actief naar strategische partnerschappen die een cruciale rol spelen bij het vormgeven van de toekomst van de textiel-, kleding-, mode- en schoenenindustrie. Troy is kernlid van het Erasmus+ Fashion and Textile Transitions project en de New Textile Ecosystems (New Texeco) Research Community. Zijn praktische achtergrond in Design en ICT voedt zijn passie voor het verkennen van de relatie tussen data en materiaal door middel van draagbare items.
Als lector van de Fashion Research and Technology onderzoeksgroep aan de Hogeschool van Amsterdam richt hij zich met de Wearable Data Studio op de computationele vervaardiging van kleding, schoenen en accessoires. Door dit onderzoek kunnen Troy en zijn team zich verdiepen in het complexe adaptieve ecosysteem van mode, met een bijzondere focus op gegevensbeheer, ontwerp, productie en gebruik. Dit heeft geleid tot de ontwikkeling van fysieke, digitale en hybride artefacten en toolkits die een materieel perspectief en data-enabled ecosystem lifecycle frameworks bevorderen.
Troy's onderzoek is geworteld in de wisselwerking tussen mode, ruimtelijk ontwerp en architectuur, bekeken door een digitale lens. Deze inter-scalerische basis wordt versterkt door zijn ervaring als modeontwerper in New York City en Florence, waar hij werkte met merken als Hugo Boss, Panerai en Calvin Klein.
Troy's ideeën over data als materiaal zijn verfijnd door zijn onderzoekswerk als promovendus in de Marie Skołdowska-Curie-actie ArcInTexETN aan de Technische Universiteit Eindhoven, binnen Philips Research en het Design Research Lab van UdK Berlijn. Hij heeft zijn onderzoek ook verfijnd als post-doc onderzoeker in Co-Design en Vormveranderende Objecten en Ruimten aan de Universiteit van Aarhus en aan de TU/Eindhoven.
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Bumping Elbows; from 3D Body Scans to 3D Knitting
Nachtigall, T., & Masini, L. (2024). Bumping Elbows; from 3D Body Scans to 3D Knitting. In M. Wessely, V. Savage, P. Didyk, & J. Martinez (Eds.), Adjunct Proceedings SCF 2024: 9th ACM Symposium on Computational Fabrication July 7 - July 9, 2024 Aarhus, Denmark Article 2 Association for Computing Machinery, Inc. https://doi.org/10.1145/3665662.3673267
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Textile and Fashion Design Considerations in a Digital Era
Kuijpers, A. A. M., Nachtigall, T. R., & van Bommel, M. (2024). Textile and Fashion Design Considerations in a Digital Era: Technology Shifts Through a Postphenomenological Lens and Cross-disciplinary Interactions. In I. Saloul, S. Berrebi, N. Munawar, & M. Panico (Eds.), AHM Conference 2024: 'Heritage, Memory and Material Culture': Research-Teaching-Society Nexus (pp. 69-74). Amsterdam University Press. http://10.5117/9789048567638/AHM.2024.012
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Fold, Stand and Drape: Unweaving Physical vs Digital Textile Design Considerations
Kuijpers, A. A. M., Goveia Da Rocha, B., Van Bommel, M. R., & Nachtigall, T. (2024). Fold, Stand and Drape: Unweaving Physical vs Digital Textile Design Considerations. In L. Ciolfi, & T. Hogan (Eds.), TEI '24: Proceedings of the Eighteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction Association for Computing Machinery. https://doi.org/10.1145/3623509.3633351
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Foot Augmentation 101: Design your own Augmented Experiences
Wittchen, D., Sabnis, N., Nachtigall, T. R., Mueller, F. F., Strohmeier, P., & Elvitigala, D. S. (2024). Foot Augmentation 101: Design your own Augmented Experiences. In Proceedings of the Eighteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (TEI '24). Association for Computing Machinery, Inc. https://doi.org/10.1145/3623509.3634744
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Beyond Vision: Designing a ‘digital-self’ through embodied creative interactions
Nachtigall, T. R., Vonk, T. E., Kresin, F. J., Bartha, E. L., & Southwick, D. (2023). Beyond Vision: Designing a ‘digital-self’ through embodied creative interactions. In Fashion+ : Inclusive articulations and practices in design, communication & development
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Becoming solar
Mackey, A., De La Guarda, M. V., Tomico, O., Wakkary, R., Nachtigall, T., & De Waal, M. (2023). Becoming solar: towards more-than-human understandings of solar energy. Temes de Disseny, 2023(39), 248-268. https://doi.org/10.46467/TdD39.2023.248-269
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Creating an environment to fight the fashion system: Fashion Tech Farm
Toeters, M., Feijs, L., Nachtigall, T., & Contrechoc, B. (2023). Creating an environment to fight the fashion system: Fashion Tech Farm. In M. Bruns, L.-L. Chen, S. Colombo, J. Hu, S. Kyffin, Y. Lim, O. Vieira, E. J. Raijmakers, L. Rampino, E. Rodriguez Ramirez, D. J. Steffen, & C. Wong (Eds.), Design and Semantics of Form and Movement (DesForM 2023) proceedings (pp. 126-136)
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Second Skins: Exploring the Challenges and Opportunities for Designing Adaptable Garments Using E-Textile
Beemer, M., Dils, C., & Nachtigall, T. (2023). Second Skins: Exploring the Challenges and Opportunities for Designing Adaptable Garments Using E-Textile. Engineering Proceedings, 30(1), Article 9. https://doi.org/10.3390/engproc2023030009
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How textiles open up data as a material in and on the body
Nachtigall, T. (2022). How textiles open up data as a material in and on the body. XRDS Crossroads, 29(2), 24-28. https://doi.org/10.1145/3571298
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The 25th Edition of the International Symposium on Wearable Computers
Roggen, D., Vega, K., Kao, C. H. L., Nachtigall, T., Ward, J. A., & Beigl, M. (2022). The 25th Edition of the International Symposium on Wearable Computers. IEEE Pervasive Computing, 21(2), 105-111. https://doi.org/10.1109/MPRV.2022.3162900
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Data as a material for fashion
Nachtigall, T. (2021). Data as a material for fashion: Fashion Research & Technology. Hogeschool van Amsterdam.
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Making sustainability work
Bogers, L., Kloppenburg, I., Maldini, I., Nachtigall, T., Oskamp, O., Vlaanderen, A., de Wit, A., van Woerden, A., van Zeijl, M., Niederer, S. (Ed.), & de Gaetano, C. (Ed.) (2021). Making sustainability work: critical making in collaboration with nature. Hogeschool van Amsterdam.
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Educating the next generation of urban interaction designers
Ruyg, M., de Waal, M., Ben Allouch, S., Nachtigall, T., & Neumann, A. (2021). Educating the next generation of urban interaction designers. In K. Barnard, M. Ruyg, & M. de Waal (Eds.), Towards media architecture (pp. 9-15). Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences; Media Architecture Institute.
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Foreword to the 25th edition of ISWC
Roggen, D., Vega, K., Kao, C. H. L., Nachtigall, T., Beigl, M., Doryab, A., & Lv, Q. (2020). Foreword to the 25th edition of ISWC. Proceedings - International Symposium on Wearable Computers, ISWC, vi.
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Designing ultra-personalized product service systems
Nachtigall, T., Mironcika, S., Tomico, O., & Feijs, L. (2020). Designing ultra-personalized product service systems. CoDesign, 16(4), 274-292. https://doi.org/10.1080/15710882.2020.1842454
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Materializing data: craftsmanship and technology for ultra-personalization
Nachtigall, T. R. (2019). Materializing data: craftsmanship and technology for ultra-personalization. Technische Universiteit Eindhoven.
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Exploring mechanical meta-material structures through personalised shoe sole design
Amorim, D. J. N., Nachtigall, T., & Alonso, M. B. (2019). Exploring mechanical meta-material structures through personalised shoe sole design. In Proceedings: SCF 2019 - ACM Symposium on Computational Fabrication (pp. 1-8) https://doi.org/10.1145/3328939.3329001
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Encoding materials and data for iterative personalization
Nachtigall, T., Tomico, O., Wakkary, R., & Van Dongen, P. (2019). Encoding materials and data for iterative personalization. In Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems - Proceedings https://doi.org/10.1145/3290605.3300749
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From personal to ultra-personalized
Nachtigall, T. R., Mironcika, S., Feijs, L. M. G., & Tomico Plasencia, O. (2019). From personal to ultra-personalized. In Knowing together - experiental knowledge and collaboration (EKSIG 2019) (pp. 41-55)
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Oneday shoes: A maker toolkit to understand the role of co-manufacturing in personalization
Nachtigall, T., Tomico, O., & Wakkary, R. (2019). Oneday shoes: A maker toolkit to understand the role of co-manufacturing in personalization. In TEI 2019 - Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction https://doi.org/10.1145/3294109.3295637
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A five-year review of methods, purposes and domains of the international symposium on wearable computing
Nachtigall, T., Tetteroo, D., & Markopoulos, P. (2018). A five-year review of methods, purposes and domains of the international symposium on wearable computing. In ISWC 2018 - Proceedings of the 2018 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (pp. 48-55). Association for Computing Machinery, Inc. https://doi.org/10.1145/3267242.3267272
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Making secret pockets
Nachtigall, T. R., & Andersen, K. (2018). Making secret pockets. In CHI 2018 - Extended Abstracts of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Vol. 2018-April, pp. 1-6). Association for Computing Machinery, Inc. https://doi.org/10.1145/3170427.3188611
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Towards Ultra Personalized 4D Printed Shoes
Nachtigall, T. R., Tomico, O., Wakkary, R., Wensveen, S., Dongen, P. V., & Noorden, L. T. V. (2018). Towards Ultra Personalized 4D Printed Shoes. In Extended Abstracts of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (pp. 1-9). Association for Computing Machinery. https://doi.org/10.1145/3170427.3174369
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EVA Moccasin: creating a research archetype to explore shoe use
Nachtigall, T. (2017). EVA Moccasin: creating a research archetype to explore shoe use. In ISWC '17: Proceedings of the 2017 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (Vol. Part F1305, pp. 197-202). https://doi.org/10.1145/3123021.3123077
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Ultra personalization and textile thinking in interaction design
Nachtigall, T. (2016). Ultra personalization and textile thinking in interaction design. In UbiComp 2016 Adjunct - Proceedings of the 2016 ACM International Joint Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing (pp. 958-961). Association for Computing Machinery, Inc. https://doi.org/10.1145/2968219.2979142
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Sole maker : towards ultra-personalised shoe design using voronoi diagrams and 3D printing
Feijs, L. M. G., Nachtigall, T. R., & Tomico Plasencia, O. (2016). Sole maker : towards ultra-personalised shoe design using voronoi diagrams and 3D printing. In K. Polthier, J. A. Baerentzen, & E. Akleman (Eds.), Proceedings of SMI'2016 Fabrication and Sculpting Event (FASE) (Vol. 2016, pp. 31-40). (Hyperseeing). ISAMA. http://www.geometrysummit.org/program.html
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2013 E-Textile swatchbook exchange
Hertenberger, A., Scholz, B., Contrechoc, B., Stewart, B., Kurbak, E., Perner-Wilson, H., Posch, I., Cabral, I., Qi, J., Childs, K., Kuusk, K., Calder, L., Toeters, M., Kisand, M., Bhömer, M. T., Donneaud, M., Grant, M., Coleman, M., Satomi, M., ... Nachtigall, T. R. (2014). 2013 E-Textile swatchbook exchange: The importance of sharing physical work. In ISWC'14 Adjunct - Proceedings of the 2014 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (pp. 77-81). Article 2641276 (Proceedings - International Symposium on Wearable Computers, ISWC). IEEE Computer Society. https://doi.org/10.1145/2641248.2641276
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Welcome message from the iswc design exhibition chair
Nachtigall, T. (2014). Welcome message from the iswc design exhibition chair. In Proceedings - International Symposium on Wearable Computers, ISWC (pp. vii)